This was to be our second attempt at the mighty Tapuae-o-Uenuku in the Inland Kaikoura Range, weather having aborted our 2025 trip. However only a few days prior to our August 2026 ferry departure, we learned that the road into the Hodder River, access to “Tappy”, was to be closed for six weeks and so plans had to quickly change.
And so, with an average-at-best five-day weather forecast, on Thursday 20th August the four of us were sitting in the Bluebridge lounge scheming options for Arthur’s Pass, our Plan B. Rome Ridge was Plan B, Option A, and Temple Basin was Plan B, Option B.
The crack team on this trip were Chris “Bagpipes” Newton, Will “Jack Nicholson” Young, Emma “Large Pizza” Coombe, and me, Andrew “Black Totem” Croskery. Whilst trail names are usually reserved for months-long, epic great walks, with the humour of this party it didn’t take long for personalities to earn theirs.
The trip down to Arthur’s Pass, which took the balance of the day, involved reviewing weather reports from YR and Windy, and even a personalised forecast from Met Service, with the outcome being that we were unlikely to get the 10 to 12 hours we estimated we’d need for Rome Ridge. So on to Plan B, Option B: Temple Basin.
We soon settled on a loop from Page Memorial Hut to the saddle southwest of Phipps Peak, over Mt Temple and down to Temple Col, Plan B, Option B. This route looked to give us what we were after: time together working in two ropes of two, with plenty of anchor and gear placement opportunities.
We’d determined that a departure from the carpark at 7:00am should give us the daylight we needed to at least get back down to the Temple Basin ski field before the August darkness set in. Soon after 7:00am the four of us were traipsing up the zig-zag toward the menagerie of buildings that support the Temple Basin ski area. A mere twenty minutes into our walk, though, we suffered a gear failure that would force yet another change to our day: Plan B, Option C needed to be hatched.
Due to a protracted absence from the mountains, Bagpipes’ boot soles delaminated and parted company from their respective boots, with one heel and one full sole gone over the course of ten metres. Figuring duct tape was not a full-day solution, a team of two quickly headed back down the hill and back to our accommodation for a spare pair of tramping boots and flexi-crampons.
Large Pizza and I headed on up to wait near the ski lodge and consider yet further options for our day.
Jack N and Bagpipes arrived soon after 9:00am and we quickly departed for the ski area, twenty minutes or so further up the valley. Once there we split into two teams to attack a couple of gully and arete systems on the western side of Mt Temple.
Large Pizza and I were soon on our own, traversing a steep snow and ice gully to the arete we’d chosen, where we roped up and placed a bomber two-cam anchor for the first pitch. The rock start to the pitch proved to be the crux; once on it, the climbing itself wasn’t too difficult, but we soon learned why this route wasn’t in the guidebook: the sheer volume of loose choss. Gear placement was minimal, and probably of average quality, though a couple of cams were set and an anchor rock found. Pitches two and three were a similar mix of snow, ice and chossy rock, with some lovely short steep sections to overcome. Limited gear options existed.
Each pitch required the leader to quickly move out of sight of the belayer, which caused some fun as the north-westerly wind limited our ability to communicate. On pitch four, though, there was no uncertainty in hearing Large Pizza at the belay when she collected an almost helmet-sized rock in her right forearm, with me only twenty metres above her. Her language suggested a significant level of pain, and a pending problem for us.
A discussion followed as to whether we rappel the three pitches or continue up for a final pitch in the hope of finding an easy exit route to the ski field. We determined to push on. Pitch four again had a steep rock step before the snow ridge eased off, finishing with a snow anchor an easy stroll from the summit knoll at 1,840 metres. As Large Pizza followed up, her arm swelling but otherwise intact, some three hours after we’d parted from our mates, we finally spotted Bagpipes emerging from an adjacent ice gully with a promising smile on his face. It was good to know all was well with our two friends.
After a rest on the summit and scouting a route down to the col to the south, we agreed we could find an easier descent to the ski field: a steep snow and ice gully to the west. We were on the ski field following twenty odd minutes of down-climbing where we then had the pleasure of watching our climbing mates solve their own descent jigsaw. It took them another hour or so to reach the lodge, where we debriefed our days and changed for the quick stroll back to the road. Out by 5:00pm, and in time for an ale at the Alpine Parrot, Arthur’s Pass.
Our day three was a sac day with 40-50mm precipitation in the form of rain and sleet forecast so we headed to Hokitika for a late breakfast, returning to our accommodation to prepare a dinner of venison back-steak, roast vegetables and vino.
Day four, Sunday we headed west to check out Rapaki Rock however the high winds forced us into the local bouldering gym which was a great second choice.
All-in-all a mixed trip in terms of outcomes, but we all learned plenty and had a great time. Injuries were minor.
This was my first trip to Temple Basin, but certainly won’t be my last as there’s a huge range of climbing opportunity here, with easy access from the road or the ski lodge.
Staying at Page Memorial Hut could be an option for the desperate however the talk of ghosts may put you off: (https://www.wildernessmag.co.nz/haunted-huts/?srsltid=AfmBOorA4s7-KMaWnXiTokWycaJO7FP1EnMiLTDbn-kKFUltcTJy1jOX)
And the players were …
And me,
North of the Saddle 
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