We were a day late getting to the start of the track due to low cloud delaying our departure from Wellington then not being able to land in Takaka for the same issue. So our day 1 involved what was planned to be our first two days, and powering through 41.7km to James Mackay Hut. A long haul.
The Heaphy is a total of 78km, being the longest of the great walks, and would make a better four day trip with more time spent on the Gouland Downs and exploring the caves around Gouland Downs Hut or hunting Takake near Saxon Hut.
A couple of hours in, and around 600m vertical gained. The track tops out at around 900m so not a great deal of climbing involved and it’s all over by Perry Saddle.
The Heaphy is famous for these dark tannin stained streams and rivers. The tannin is caused by beech tree leaves falling into the rivers and streams.
Gouland Downs Hut, roughly as I remember it from my visit 39 years ago!
Unfortunately we didn’t find a live Powelliphanta. These can grow shells up to 110mm in diameter, and eat worms for dinner. They are the largest carnivorous snails in the world.
Lewis Hut situated at the confluence of the Lewis and Heaphy rivers. Motorbikes were used by DoC staff and contractors building a bridge over the Lewis River when we passed through.
At the junction of the Lewis and Heaphy rivers. A new bridge across the Lewis is almost finished (out of view), with the bridge over the much larger Heaphy a hundred yards away.
Strangely, or not, DoC fly in wet pine for the fire and won’t let the hut wardens cut drift wood due to safety issues with chainsaws!
Beaut as there were no queues (or dress code). In good West Coast fashion our plane was an hour or so late – which was roughly on time for the coast.
We had a beaut flight back over our route and down into Takaka for a couple of nights before flying home with Golden Bay Air. They provide a superb service for trampers, with flights and shuttles all part of the package.
North of the Saddle 
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